cheap 2000 Ford Explorer

Read and learn more about cheap 2000 Ford Explorer. For more, visit the Ford Explorer website TruckExplorer.org

Q: Does anyone know of any cheap places to buy body parts for a 2000 Ford Explorer?
I need a passenger side front fender, passenger side front door, drivers side back door and the panel at the bottom( don’t know what it’s called).

A: http://car-part.com/

Q: where do i find a cheap price for a 2000 ford explorer gasket kit??? 4.0 sohc?

A: the best gasket kit would be from napa auto parts

Q: I need an cheap way to clear the (ABS) light in my 2000 Ford Exploder?
Well I replaced the Hub Assymblies on my 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Baurer Edition 5.0 liter All Wheele Drive (AWD). Now i need a cheep way to clear the (ABS) light. Does anyone know of like a few buttons I can hit to clear it or do I have to go to a shop some where so I can spend an arm and a leg?

A: Disconnect the battery for about a minute and then rehook it.

Q: I need the proper tires for a 2000 Ford Explorer Sport SUV. I live in Germany and drive on the autobahn. Help!?
I am not sure what size or brand tires I need but the mechanic said it would be cheaper if I ordered them and he would put them on for me. I don’t know where to begin. I drive around 50k’s per day and I do autobahn driving so it is a bit more intensive than regular US freeway driving. Can anyone help me?

A: So, Germany! Lets start out with the proper link for you to buy tires online there.
http://www.reifendirekt.de/ That is Tire-easy.com’s German division. You’ll find many quality brands there and you can call them also to help you with the proper fitment.
TireRack? Shipping to Germany?

Auf Wiedersehen

Q: Multiple Questions about a 2000 Ford Explorer?
1. What is a “Sway Bar”? I think I am missing a link on that, and how much does it cost to fix?
2. I hit a deer and broke my grille in half, a mechanic told me it would be cheaper to buy the part and have it installed myself than to call insurance. Does anyone know what this might cost me?
3. How much does it cost to have a car painted a different color? Mine is red and I want it black

A: 1. A sway bar is heavy, solid metal bar that ties each wheel to the chassis of your car, through a sway bar link, to help improve the handling of your car. It is a critical part of your suspension, and should be repaired soon, especially in an SUV, since they are well known for their poor handling characteristics.
2. The mechanic is right, the grille should be easily installed with basic tools, for alot less than your insurance rates are going increase, over the next couple of years.
3. Repainting a car isn’t a good, or inexpensive idea for any auto. Repainting jobs are never as good as the original, unless you spend as much as a new car on it. Black and red are two of the hardest colors to paint, because they show every dent, and speck of dirt. Painting a car either of those colors will cost you a little more, due to the extra work. Ask your insurance agent, if they’re honest, they’ll tell you that they charge extra for black and red autos. An average repaint job in my area, will cost upwards of $1500.00, just to get a barely passable job, with no major body work.

Q: exhaust for ford explorer?
how can i make the exhaust on my 2000 ford explorer 6 cyl. louder cheap?

A: cherry bomb or a new muffler

Q: I got 2 Question about Ford Explorer and Dodge Durango?
What is going on with the 1998-2001 Ford Explorer V6 engine SOHC “only”? Many people are saying that they are not that good ! The engine lose power most of the time. They also say the the timing belt tensioner break alot and so the head gasket are so cheap made of plastic and so the ball joints control arm! Is this True? Because I was thinking buying one, witch one is better a 1998-2000 Dodge Durango or Ford Explorer?

A: We have a 1998 durango and its worked for 11 years with over 200k on it. I’d get the 200 one. It’s a little more fuel efficient i think in the long run. Coincidentally, we’re getting a new one today of the 2008 model.

Q: Cheap car low maintenance?
As I already stated in my last? I bought this 2008 F250 and had it a week and love it. It is actually my first car. Well I went through high school and collage my dad let me drive his 2000 Ford Explorer and I was tired of borrowing his extra car and figured since I was getting a job I should get my own. Well I live 55 miles around trip from work and I work 4 days week and the miles just keep putting on and I don’t want to put that many on the truck so I am looking for a slider I would take a small car but were I live it snows so at least awd would be nice I guess if it snows that bad I could drive the truck prefer a Ford but will consider others $3,000- $6,000

A: You also should compare car insurance quotes for cars before buying one, for example here – carinsurance.deep-ice.com

Q: Ford Explorer 1997?
Hi all This really is an exceptional vehicle. I get 30 mpg just under on a long haul.

I bought her 6 months ago really very cheap and I realised I would have work which I was more than prepared to do.

I done all the jobs. Now I find just two problems, a very slight streering wander( have change shocks back and front and bushes abd track ends). Some say its normally and Ford have told me its OK but I feel it should not do that.

Also fromt the fornt drivers side wheel, (she is Right hand drive) there is a rub rub rub sould which is more pronouce when at crawing speed. Again Ford have checked it and found nothing bearings are OK and it only the noise that is the problem as I have just done a 2000 miles round trip at an average of around 70 mph,

The noise at the end of the journey is no better or no worse—-Any ideas please guys?

One thing more after a straight 9 hour return drive I can honestly state it was the most comfortable drive ever.

What a great vehicle.-

A: i think Ford paid u to put up some junk stuff like this

Q: More horsepower?
What would be a cheap and easy way to boost the horsepower on my truck? 2000 Ford Explorer / 4.0L / Overhead valve

A: some new headers and a cold air intake

Q: im moving out soon and i have a question?
im moving out of my parent’s house in january. i’m moving 1,000 miles away, and where i live now, there’s really great prices on kitchen stuff and other household type things. i’m going to be driving my car (i have a 2000 ford explorer so it’s a pretty big car) and i don’t really have a lot of stuff..just clothes and books. my question is, should i buy my household items down here before i move since they’re so cheap? or should i wait until i move to get all of it?

A: I’d suggest buying household items where they’re cheaper if you can fit them in your car.

(Answer mine?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=An6PjlJKTVQZJHj0Y6HoFZzD7BR.;_ylv=3?qid=20081003205525AAn8O6j )

Q: do i relieve the pressure to change the fuel filter?
i have a 2000 ford explorer and its been having problems. it was reving real bad and wouldn’t accelerate when i put my foot on the gas and now when i turn it on it’ll kinda stall for a few seconds then die. people are saying i might need a new feul pump, but to change the filter first cause it’s cheaper.. but im having troube changing that. it wont come off… how do i relieve the pressure so i can take it off? (theres no bolts on the line to relieve pressure.. im new to this n im not quite sure wat to do)

A: Top of the motor on the fuel rail there is a valve similar to the valve on your tire this will release the fuel pressure .You can get a small plastic tool from the parts store to remove the filter from the lines .

Q: Could I fit 33 inch tires with a 4 inch body lift kit?
Ok I have a 2000 ford explorer. Now, I have pretty much given up on trying to find a suspension kit…they are almost impossible to find. But I see alot of body kits around. So, I decided I want a 4 inch body kit. (also they are way way cheaper). Now, i really want some tires. 33 inches in fact…You think I would have enough room to allow them to fit? Should I go higher? Maybe adjust my suspension? Or just go with raising my suspension?

A: for sure i think a 2 inch body lift would fit 33’s but yea you should be fine the only thing would be when turning you would rub a lil on the fender and bumper

nothing that a saw-all wont take care of

Q: Which 2000-2008 9-5 Saab Wagons Are Best?
I’m starting my search for a new-to-me-used car, and the 9-5 appeals to me. Apparently now is either a great or strange time to buy a Saab. What aspects and years should I look out for good/bad? They seem relatively similar overall when it comes to build, so I am thinking focus on low mileage (but that makes me wonder since Saab drivers are passionate so these are the lemons?) and shopping for a warranty to cover surprises.

It looks like Aeros (2006 Sport) are the way to go – are the Arcs much better than Linears? V6 to avoid sludge, immaculate servicing, and there’s a timing issue for some at 60,000 miles. Are there generally more or less future issues with the Turbo? Are there more GM parts in later model guts that make things cheaper?

I’m a mom driver of 3 children old enough to not need the minivan and I know how to do simple maintenance. (If you comment that Saabs are junk and you are a repair person I don’t get it because that is your livelihood – please elaborate on the issues). Right now I drive an inherited 96 Ford Explorer.

A: You did a lot of good research. Here are a couple of things you have to watch out for, no matter what year of this car that you buy:

Direct Ignition Cassette (DIC) – these are notorious for failing at the worst possible time, stranding the operator. Basically, if you go over 60,000 on the cars you have to have one on you in the trunk. My friend who owns one was glad he did as he was on a long distance trip from NJ to DC, and the DIC failed in DC. He plugged it in his disabled car and it continued to work. They fail approximately every 60k, so expect it to go and cost about $400 each time it happens.

The four cylinders are susceptible to sludge. However, having said that, a well maintained car with synthetic Mobil 1 oil like recommended can create a good working environment for the engine and some four cylinders can be in good shape. The trick is finding one that is well taken care of – with all the records intact.

The cars do have electrical issues from time to times, but getting 2007 or newer with the GM electronics in the modest redesign improved things somewhat.

I own a 9-3 2006 and in 2003, they switched engine designs (went with a GM 2.0 liter ectoec) which got rid of the sludge problems. Actually, if you want a more reliable car as far as it goes with the engine because you dislike the sludge, the 2006 and later year Saab 9-3 don’t have the engine issues and the electrically problems are fixed. I just broke 60,000 miles and the only things I have replaced recently (besides the standard 10,000 mile tune ups and oil changes) were the wiper blades for $50, and new rear brake pads for $210.

If you want one and are careful, you can do okay with these cars. Just go in understanding the weaknesses of the 9-5 power-train around sludge and the DIC. Good luck.

Q: Whats the best SUV for me and my lifestyle?
I am 18 and looking for my firs “real” car- I have a truck thats loaned from my parents, and ive been loaned 2 of their minivans in the past- One I totaled at 16, and One that was a cheap replacement for the first one and the tranny died about 7 months later.

I am looking for something that is mid-sized… Like Dodge Durango or Ford Explorer Size, if that makes sense. I wanted a tahoe but a Tahoe is more truck then I need.

My requirements:
• Has to have fold-down backseats to accommodate 2 large dog crates
• 4WD/AWD would be very nice
• ABS or traction control would be nice as well.
• Hopefully not a gas hog
• My price range is around $12,000, so if you can recommend a year “range” (i.e. 2000-2004 models), thats great too.

Fords and Chevys are popular in my town, so parts are easier to replace if I need, although I am open to anything.

Anyone have suggestions?
Well la Vita, I dont have much of a choice, Dog shows are important to me and I have to travel comfortably

A: Hey,

You really can’t go wrong with anything you’ve mentioned.

They are all gonna suck gas though – stick with a V6 if you can.

With 2 full sized pups…. and $12,000…. you are pretty limited to a big SUV. Both the Durango and Explorer can be found for with very reasonable mileage and age for $12,000 (just checking out e-bay real quick).

Looks like anywhere from 2003 to 2006 with anywhere from 60k to 80k miles.

A few others that you might try on (not sure if they are too small) are a Nissan Xtera, Honda Element (funky – but versatile little truck), and maybe a jeep comando.

Chevy trailblazer is also a possible, but I hate (and I rarely use the word hate) they way they drive. Slopppppppy. But, they are somewhat roomy.

One more – if you’re not too fashion self-conscientious – Chevy Uplander (also sold as Saturn Relay, Pontiac Montana SV6, and Buick Terraza). Check it out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-CHEVY-UPLANDER-LS-EXT-WB-4DR-3-9L-V6_W0QQitemZ220533439736QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3358d13cf8#ht_5435wt_1165

They are minivans but when GM built them, they built them more like SUVS with sliding doors. They are actually pretty decent for hauling tons of stuff and we got 26mpg on the highway when we rented one. It will easily fit your dogs and they can be found with 4 wheel drive. I mention it for you because $12,000 can find you a very low mileage, newer 2007 2008ish model. The down side, they don’t make them anymore (unpopular sales record) and so you might not plan on keeping it more than 3-5 years due to parts scarcity issues that could come up. But for $10k bucks you could have a pretty clean, safe ride for 5 years or so.

Best bet is probably an Explorer.
Nothing wrong with a Tahoe – too much truck? That’s like too much steak – not possible. You’ll be happy with either.

Enjoy
Tim

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