1998 Ford Explorer
Ford Explorer » 1998 Ford Explorer » 1998 Ford Explorer parts

1998 Ford Explorer parts

Read and learn more about 1998 Ford Explorer parts. For more, visit the Ford Explorer website TruckExplorer.org

Q: 1998 Ford Explorer parts magaine?
no spam, please!

A: try LMC dot com the handle body and suspension parts for ford

Q: Aftermarket parts for my 1998 Ford Explorer Sport 4×4?
Where’s a good place to find aftermarket parts like brush guards, fog lights, hoods, suspension kits, etc. for my explorer? I’m wanting some websites. I’m just having a little trouble finding stuff. Thanks for any help!

A: http://www.frtruckparts.com/

Q: What is estimated cost, including labor, to replace fuel pump on 1998 Ford Explorer?
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer with over 100,000 miles and mechanic called to say with towing to his garage, parts and labor would be $850. Is this about right?

A: I just got a price of $884 today for the same thing.

Q: 1998 Ford Explorer Catalytic Converter…HELP!!!?
I am replacing both catalytic converters on my 1998 Ford Explorer. For just parts at O’Reilly’s is $72.99 each for a universal one. I can get them put on for $150 so total cost is $300. At the local muffler shop, they are trying to sell me their Flowmaster brand plus install for $450. I need to know if the one he’s trying to sell me is worth the $150 or if he’s trying to rip me off. He claims the one at O’Reilly’s wouldn’t work as well…is this true? Thanks for the help!!!
The universal ones have a 1 year warranty and the others have a 2 year warranty.

A: The installer’s price is high. Open yer local yellar pages & call ALL the local shops & ask fer an ‘ out the door price ‘.

Q: Can I replace the serpentine belt tensioner on my 1998 Ford Explorer?
I posted a Q last night, but I have more info today! I have a 1998 Ford Explorer- 2 WD, V6 4.0 liter engine-keyless entry (they asked all that at the parts store). After some diagnostics, we believe the serpentine belt tensioner needs to be replaced but I can not find any info online as to whether this is a DIY type job. Can anyone help me (and my poor husband) on this? Is this an easy repair job?

Here was my original Q:

My car is making a high pitched whiny kinda squealing noise! When I left home, it
started this high pitched squeal….then stopped…drove about 60 miles…It sat for about two hours in a parking lot. On the way home, it started that noise
and never stopped…Just as I was turning into the subdivision, my radio quit and
my lights went real dim on my dash…the ABS light came on…pulled in the drive…
turned it off and waited a second, tried to turn it back on and it just clicked…dead
battery…

Thank you SO much for all the help last night and any today!

A: Ok so a belt tensioner is a fairly easy thing to replace on most all vehicles if you have the right tools. But to be honest from what you described unless the belt broke off its not the tensioner its the alternator. When the diodes in the alternator go bad they screw with everything in the car. Dash lights flicker, stereo goes in and out, and then the car dies as the battery finally goes dead from not getting a charge. If the tensioner needs to be replaced then I would do it too but dont think that will cure the problem completely. To replace the tensioner just take the belt off (make sure you remember how it goes back on) then remove the bolt in the center of it (not the one on the pulley itself, the one on the assembly) once you buy a new one and look at it you will realize just how easy it is to do. Just need a ratchet a socket and it make it a little easier to have a tool called a belt tensioner tool. It makes it easier to take the belt on and off because it is designed to release the tensioner and remove tension from the belt. Hope this helps. Good Luck!!! Feel free to email me or message me if you need any more help.

Q: Anyone knows what is the motorcraft part number for the Ford Explorer 1998 Fuel Sensor?
I’m not a native english speaker, so I don’t know the “technical name” for this part in english.

Thanks for your help

A: Check with any FLM parts department or www.fordvehicles.com or call1-800-392-3673

Q: how do i install rear brake pads on a 1998 ford explorer?
i tried looking for a web site with visual instructions but couldn’t?
this explorer comes with disk not drum brakes.
i have all the parts. but can any one instruct me how to do the job?

A: Jack up the car take the wheel off, onpen the hood and take the cap of the master cyl. then back at the calaper unbolt the 2 bolts in the back that hold the cyl. in place. Now get a big c-clamp and put it up on the rear shoe and clamp down untill the piston goes all the way back in . then you can take out the pads and reverse way you took it apart and that is it. Now if the routers are really torn up you will have to have them resurfaced at a machine shop. cost about $20.00. the best thing you want to do is test drive the explorer and litely step on the brakes if you fill a pause in the peddle then you need them turned. I have a car that has 235.000 miles on it and never had the rotors turn.

Q: How much would it cost to replace all my ball joints on my 1998 ford explorer?
labor and parts.

A: for all of them and to have the front end re-aligned on it around 350- 450 bucks and that covers everything ,i have did a few of those,kind of odd those wear out really fast, some of the older ones would last twice as long as the newer ones would,i have already replaced mine and it only has 95 thousand on it,and was well maintained,but that’s about what it should cost you,and it may be less it depends on where you have it done at,good luck with it.

Q: part number for 1998 ford explorer GEM module?

A: Which GEM module. GEM stands for General Electronic Module and the 98 Explorer has approx 5. You should probably call a Ford dealer and ask the parts department for the number to the module you think you need and they might even be able to tell you if you anywhere near close in your diagnostics.

P.S.
No wonder Gay Answer guy is Gay… he isn’t smart enough to like women… DO NOT CALL GM FOR A FORD PART NUMBER

Q: Had a bypass hose replaced on a 1998 Ford Explorer with 5.0L V-8. How many hours should shop have charged me?
I had this repair work done at the Ford Dealer because I was stuck in the middle of no where. They charged one hour to diagnose and 2 hours to replace the part.

A: Most of your dealers and repair shops have a job-specific rate that the shop charges regardless of the time spent on doing the actual work. So, you would get charged 3 hours whether the mechanic did it in 3 hours or if he did it in 20 minutes.

Just the nature of the beast. And the less repair work you can do (or are capable of doing) on your own will show up in the charges you will pay.

Q: 2000 Ford Explorer Parts! Please Help!?
I need a drivers side power Mirror, a center console lid
and a factory CD Stereo.

What are the comparable years for these parts?
Example: 1998-2000
I am getting conflicting results from the internet.

Thanks for youe help!

A: 1998-2000 typically, but also other years before and after will also fit as well, good luck…….

Q: 1998 Ford Explorer Transfer Case Slop?
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer AWD V8. When I start to accelerate from a stop it takes a second for the front drive shaft to start to spin and it clunks when it begins to turn. It’s not a loud clunk, but noticeable. I work at a GM dealership and one of the technicians and I put my truck in the air and found that there is a little slop in the front shaft. It’s not from the U-joints. It’s coming from inside the transfer case. What part would need to be replaced in order to fix this? I don’t feel like replacing the transfer case because most of the ones I’ve found are $500 or more. It’s not that bad of a problem, just annoying, and my tech said it’s just a piece of s*** Ford and I should deal with it, obviously he’s a GM guy. Is it worth replacing parts, and if so what part would most likely cause a little too much play in the front drive shaft, or is it a better idea to buy a remanufactured transfer case?

A: start off with locating the problem is it the output shaft of the t-case or is it internal if it is the slip yoke buying a yoke and replacing it is easy as replacing a u-joint if it inside the t-case remove the t-case and remove the rear cover once you do that you will find it is rather similar to t-cases on gm vehicles locate the slack and replace the part or parts that are worn t-cases are real straight forward in their working even more so the awd versions

Q: Is there a difference between an idle air intake valve and an idle air controller on a 1998 4WD Ford Explorer?
My friend and I have identical cars that were both having the same problem. The Ford place told me to replace my idle air intake valve and that should fix it. I did, and it didn’t correct anything. My friend had her idle air intake controller fixed and the problem went away. I was just wondering if they were the same part. I obviously know nothing about cars.

A: its the same part. proper term is idle air control motor

Q: 1998 Ford Explorer vs mid 1990’s Nissan Pathfinder…what do you think?
Its time for me to upgrade to a 4 wheel drive thats semi decent on gas. I have narrowed it down to these two options. (Feel free to offer suggestions for cars that I may have missed.)

ONE: My cousin is willing to sell me his 1998 Ford Explorer XLT with a 5 speed manual transmission and 4wd. He claims it is the stock V8 they put in the mustangs but I have done my research and can’t find a model thats a V8 with 4wd anywhere. He doesnt really know what he’s talking about when it comes to cars. Anyways, its in pretty damn good shape, it has a little over 99,000 miles. Their are no issues apparent to me. I drove it, and it drives really well. I totally understand that these cars are NOT good on gas, but heres the catch: He is willing to sell it to me for only 1500. He is a trustworthy guy, and he is family. He is only the second owner. He is only selling it because he got a new truck, and does not drive it. I drive very little just to school and back, and I would like to take it to Tahoe, and maybe 4 wheeling down at Pismo Beach. I have read mixed reviews on this model, but it seems to be decent. I just need something reliable, 4wd, and some room to get my drums around.

TWO: I have seen quite a few early to mid 90’s Pathfinders on Craigslist for sale. I really do like the look, and like the reviews on them ever more. They are roomy, and extremly reliable. They are pretty good on gas as well. Best of all, they are semi affordable. BTW, I cannot pay much more than 2000 for a car. Part time job and being a student living on my own doesnt allow me to purchase a brand new car right now. The only issue with the majority of the pathfinders I am seeing is that they typically will have 200,000 miles or more on them within this price range. I do not have the time or the money to have the engine overhauled anytime soon, and I don’t want to risk this being a problem.

So I am just looking for opinions and/or ideas. Keep in mind that I want something that isn’t too bad on gas, I want a stick shift, 4wd, and best of all, affordable. My 82 Volvo just isnt cutting it anymore. While it is reliable, I need something with a little more power, and 4wd. I am not too excited on owning a ford, as I was raised with a family who hated american cars, but I may be willing to give this a shot.

Let me know.

A: 98 Ford Explorer

Transmission & Driveline
Moderate Problems A general problem with this vehicle is with the 4 Wheel Drive System. This can result in a loss of 4 Wheel Drive operation. The failures are not specific to any one part. Therefore the $ cost of repairs will vary

Engine
Moderate Problems Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) Sensor and the Intake Manifold Gaskets and front Timing Chain Tensioner, 4.0L VIN E engine only. The cost to repair the MAF Sensor is estimated at $200.00 for parts and $26.00 for labor. The cost to repair the DPFE Sensor is estimated at $52.00 for parts and $32.50 for labor. The Intake Manifold Gaskets and front Timing Chain Tensioner are covered under a recall up to 72,000 miles. If the vehicle is past the allowable mileage for the recall, the cost to repair the Intake Manifold Gaskets and front Timing Chain Tensioner is estimated at $45.00 for parts and $130.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.

Q: Ford explorer Cargo blind?
Hi,
I am in Australia and i am having alot of difficulty finding a cargo blind to fit into my 1998 ford explorer. I was wondering if a cargo blind from a another model ford eg ford escape or ford falcon, would fit into my explorer. does anyone if it will fit or where i could get one? I have tried ebay, wreckers in and around my city, ford genuine spare parts, 4wd shops.
Thanks

A: i got a 1998 ford explorer and i get my blind cargo cover at ebay,just enter ford explorer in the search bar and will give you over 25,000 products for your car

Related Posts

Write a comment