1997 Ford Explorer
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cheap 1997 Ford Explorer

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Q: How long will this trans last on a 1997 ford explorer eddie bauer v8?
I’m looking to get a reliable truck soon to last me 1-2 years. I need something cheap so i was checking out this explorer but it has 160,000 miles with the original trans. I know that explorer transmissions usually don’t last to long but should i be pretty comfortable with this if it rides and shifts smoothly? Also, what should i look for when i check it out? thank you

A: The main thing you can do to check the transmission is to inspect the fluid color and smell. If it is brown and burnt smelling, then the trans was probably not serviced on a regular basis. If it has an overdrive lockout on the shifter it’s probably an e4od, if its on the dash probably an aod. Both transmissions are fairly reliable and will last quite a while before failure. Ask if the previous owner did any towing,and when the fluid was last changed. check for external trans coolers thats a good indicator of regular towing. Take it for a drive and before leaving shift from park to reverse and notice how long the transmission takes to pull against the brake, it should be instantaneous. Reverse takes the most fluid pressure to engage the clutch pack, so this is a good indication of the condition of the tranny pump. When you take off and under steady light acceleration, feel the tranny shift. If its not concise but understated then you got a problem. What I mean is, you feel the engine RPM rise or see it on a tach and you should feel the tranny light but definitely shift no hesitation no hard shifts either. do this several times to warm up the tranny, try to feel if the shifts are happening at the same speed each time consistently and with the same feel. If the tranny feels like its searching for a gear or cant figure out which gear its in, walk away, it’ll get expensive. Tell the seller you want to have a mechanic do a test drive and a pressure test and pull the codes, see if any are transmission related. Have the dealer do an inspection on it before or after purchase, its cheap insurance. Good Luck

Q: 1997 Ford Explorer Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Problems…….?
OKAY here’s the deal …
We bought a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT in February with our tax rebate. …. We thought we were getting a really good deal, and the guy told us that the timing chain tensioner was loose and had been rattling and making strange noises was the reason he was letting it go so cheap. He also told us that the part would only cost about $50 dollars, and my husband has a little experience with mechanics … (but with older model cars) anyhow, we decided to purchase the vehicle and take our chances on fixing it ourselves … BIG MISTAKE ! We bought the tensioner not knowing that the hard part was the labor that it took replacing it. So we decided that we would hold off and get a mechanic to fix it … ANOTHER MISTAKE ! The car ended up breaking down going down the highway. Since then it will turn over but won’t crank at all. We have priced having a mechanic do the work and the cheapest quote that we’ve gotten so far was $1,500.00 SO my question is

DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE REPLACING THE REAR TIMING TENSIONER … do you have any advice or pointers to give. At this point we have just begun to disassemble the engine hookups to pull it out of the car to work on it. But is it worth the trouble … ??

A: Unfortunately the seller pulled a fast one on you. The 4.0L actually has four timing chains, none of which utilizes a keyway or pin to lock it to the cams. Even if no internal damage was done when the chain failed you need special tools to line up and lock the cams in place while you torque the retaining bolts. We had too many with damage done after chain failure that we now just quote long blocks straight from the start. It’s cheaper, less labor intensive hour wise and the customer gets a good warranty for any future parts/labor that may happen. Let the rebuilders deal with the old one, you’ll thank yourself in the end. Quite a few professional QUALITY reman. companies are out there to meet your needs.

Q: Idle shaking problems with my 1997 Ford Explorer?
Sorry if my issue is hard to understand, I really don’t know anything about vehicles but if you want to know more just ask! I need all of the help I can get.

1.) My truck is consistently needing coolant
2.) White smoke has been seen from my tail pipe
3.) Shakes when it idles when I’m stopped, really bad in reverse, and a bit while I’m driving.
4.) It has, but rarely, overheats since these issues have started.
5.) I don’t know if it’s normal but my 2 front rims always turn black. I can wash them but it comes back.
6.) When I’m outside of the truck while it’s running you can really smell exhaust.

It may be a simple one for you guys but I seriously don’t know what it could be! Anyone have any suggestions? Could it be something cheap? (hopeful thinking)
Must be a blown head gasket! That’s basically what everyone has to say. How much could it cost me?

A: The white smoke and coolant loss are indicative of a bad head gasket or a cracked head. Not cheap. The black wheels are normal dust from brake wear, same on all cars.

Q: Ford Explorer 1997?
Hi all This really is an exceptional vehicle. I get 30 mpg just under on a long haul.

I bought her 6 months ago really very cheap and I realised I would have work which I was more than prepared to do.

I done all the jobs. Now I find just two problems, a very slight streering wander( have change shocks back and front and bushes abd track ends). Some say its normally and Ford have told me its OK but I feel it should not do that.

Also fromt the fornt drivers side wheel, (she is Right hand drive) there is a rub rub rub sould which is more pronouce when at crawing speed. Again Ford have checked it and found nothing bearings are OK and it only the noise that is the problem as I have just done a 2000 miles round trip at an average of around 70 mph,

The noise at the end of the journey is no better or no worse—-Any ideas please guys?

One thing more after a straight 9 hour return drive I can honestly state it was the most comfortable drive ever.

What a great vehicle.-

A: i think Ford paid u to put up some junk stuff like this

Q: 1997 Ford Explorer passenger side doors front and back????!!!?
So today when i was pulling out of our narrow driveway (that is lined with the brick house on one side and another house directly on the other side with just enough space to get through) I miscalculated and ended up scratching and denting the passenger side doors front and back. The explorer is green and my boyfriend wants to replace both the front and back doors. I think there is another way that is cheaper. So i was wondering if you had any ideas on how we could fix the doors without spending a grand on new doors for a used SUV…any suggestions would be appreciated!

http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv17/Uchang3it/fordexplorer.jpg
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A: If the scratches are to the metal underneath, you will have to either replace or live with filling them in with touch up paint but it will look really strange.

If the scratch didn’t cut through the clear coat you could try buffing them out… 9 times out of 10 you will still have small traces of the scratches, but they are less visible.

If you go to a body repair shop they often sell a type of putty that you cover the scratch with if it is deep, and then wet sand the putty smooth so you can paint over it…

I always use Brennan’s Bodyworks here in Orlando… but I’m sure there are som really great body shops where you live too, ask around!

Q: Problems with my 97 Ford Explorer …?
I have a 1997 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8 with about 190,500 miles on it.
Any solutions for my many problems? If your answer is “get a new car” don’t bother to reply. I don’t want a car payment and I don’t want to buy a clunker.

-Speedometer and odometer has stopped completely, all other little dash things work.
-Sometimes the power windows roll down, sometimes they don’t work for days. Sometimes they will stop working and if I reach down and hit the door, they may work again.
-Obviously it wont pass inspection… I was told 2 different reasons (besides what I’ve said before). Cam Sensor and/or O2 Sensor. Are these cheap and easy to fix? (I wont have to pay for labor, only parts). Do I have to replace the timing belt when I do the Cam?
-The headlight knob has completely broken off…. can I get it from a salvage yard? I’m kinda tired of using pliers.
-Tires are being worn QUICKLY on the inside. I bought new tires last year and already they are showing tread. Someone said it could possible be a bent tire rod or something like that….? The front end doesn’t shake or anything.

The spark plugs have been newly replaced as well as all new brakes.. if that helps.

If I made absolutley no sense, I’m not surprised, I know little about cars… just what I hear other people saying. Other than those problems, I love my Explorer. It still looks amazing and is a BEAST!

A: Get a total alignment for the tires, dealer has or can get the knob, they are not that much, most likely you have a vacuum leak causing the o2 code, cam sensor needs to be replaced. The motors are sticking in the windows, can be repaired if you find the right mech. most want to replace the motor.

Q: which of these cars is the best deal for the money?
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searchresults.jsp?engine=&fuel=&lastStartYear=1981&sort_type=priceDESC&default_sort=priceDESC&systime=&drive=&style_flag=1&body_code=0&seller_type=b&min_price=0&color=&keywords_display=&advanced=&distance=50&doors=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&awsp=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&rdm=1262633889652&marketZipError=false&keywordsfyc=&search_type=both&transmission=&max_price=3000&max_mileage=&end_year=2011&make=&start_year=1981&num_records=25&certified=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&address=46805&pager.offset=200&first_record=201

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searchresults.jsp?engine=&fuel=&lastStartYear=1981&sort_type=priceDESC&systime=&default_sort=priceDESC&drive=&style_flag=1&body_code=0&seller_type=b&min_price=0&color=&keywords_display=&advanced=&distance=50&doors=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&awsp=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&rdm=1262633889652&marketZipError=false&keywordsfyc=&search_type=both&transmission=&max_price=3000&max_mileage=&end_year=2011&make=&start_year=1981&certified=&num_records=25&address=46805&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&pager.offset=225&first_record=226

$1,200
•2 Photos
Used 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD Regular Cab
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Brunersburg Auto Sales

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Used 1992 Buick Park Avenue Sedan
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Platinum Auto Group Inc

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Used 1993 Dodge Spirit ES
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Lee Kinstle GM Sales and Service

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$2,995
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Used 1997 Ford Aerostar Extended Van AWD
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$2,995
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Used 1997 Mercury Villager
•159,001 miles
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$2,995
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Used 1994 GMC Sonoma SLE
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$2,995
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Used 1997 Mazda 626
•139,676 miles
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$2,995
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Used 1996 Ford Taurus GL Sedan
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$2,995
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Used 1998 GMC Jimmy 4×4 4 Door
•157,544 miles
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59 miles from ZIP code 46805
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$2,695
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Used 1997 Nissan Sentra
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3 miles from ZIP code 46805
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$2,695
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Used 1997 Old

A: i dont know,got board of reading but im sure its all very interesting

Q: Cheap Vehicle Choice=Which One?
1995 Ford Explorer XLT 156k’ 4.0 4×4
or
1997 Lincoln Continental 186k’ 4.6

Which of these two vehicles is the better choice? Yes I know that neither are great vehicles so no need to email saying their both Fords and fords suck etc.. Just give a honest opinion of which you would choose. As of now both run and drive without any known issues.

A: ford explorers are also known as ford exploders, they have a common timing chain problem that can be very expensive.
but saying that, i did own one for a while and found it quite comfortable and good to drive. but sold it when i heard about all the problems.
i dont know anything about the other car.

Q: I’m looking at a car?
Please Read:
Ok, I’m lookin at a 1998 Ford Escort and it has 80,000 miles on it and it’s loaded. It’s red with gray interior. It has an auto trannsmission, even though I want manual. It gets 31-39 MPG. The guy wants 2700 for it and it’s retailed on Kelly Blue Book for 3750, but I dont want to spend that much. I drive an Explorer now and it gets 15 mpg and i drive 30 miles a day. I’d say over a grand a year with this car and this car is better than the other one I’m looking at, which is a 1997 Ford Escort with 189,000 miles on it. It’s a manual transmission and it gets a little better fuel economy, but it’s $800 cheaper. There’s also a Ford Aspire that I havn’t seen yet, but I know it’s $500 and it gets real good gas milleage over at the colleage. Give me your thoughts.
*I’d save, not I’d say. sorry

A: Surprisingly, the Aspires were long-lasting cars, if not fun at all to drive. If it’s $500 and it’s in good condition, I would buy that. Escorts are good cars too, and I’ve seen them go far over 200,000, so if the cheaper Escort’s in good shape and has been meticulously maintained, it’s probably a good deal. A 1998 with 80k on it would be a good car, and I would say it’s worth not much less than he’s asking. And since you want a manual, I would just go with the cheaper Escort.

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