1997 Ford Explorer parts
A: a transmission shop can sell you the parts or fix it for you…
A: I have had Ford Explorers for 12 years – a 1991 Eddie and the a 98 XLT which now has 205,000 miles on it.
I do lots of the work myself and consider the prices for parts to be ‘fair’. If I but Ford parts then I expect to pay highly – front drive shaft $600 for example. If I can buy aftermarket parts then I expect to pay less – front disk pads $30 a set for example.
The cheapest item I was most surprised about were the chassis parts I needed on my 91 which cost me about $60 from Ford. Sure they were only bent bits of steel, but I really expected to be ripped off. I wasn’t.
Ford being US made they will cost less than for example a Toyota or a Citroen.
I hope that is some help.
Q: 1997 Ford Explorer Tailpipe part broken?
The part that connects my tailpipe to the body of my explorer has broken and it is setting on the spring for my wheel. I was wondering how hard and expensive this would be to replace.
A: I AM GUESSING YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT THE HANGER. THIS IS CHEAP AND FAIRLY EASY TO REPLACE. YOU CAN GET AFTERMARKET EXHAUST HANGERS AT ANY PARTS STORE. IF IT BROKE THE PIPE YOU CAN GET THEM ALSO FROM THEM PRE BENT. THEY COST A LITTLE MORE BUT IT WILL BE CHEAPER THAN A MUFFLER SHOP.
Q: Crankcase breather filter location on 1997 Ford Explorer?
Can someone tell me where the crankcase braether filter is on a 4.0 sohc 1997 Ford Explorer. I bought it at a NAPA parts store and it is listed for my truck. I cannot for the life of me find it. It is about the size of a quarter in diameter and about 1/2-3/4 inch deep. inside is like metal mesh. Please help me locate this.
A: I have a friend who works at a Ford dealership Parts department and he believes that your year of Explorer does not have one because the pcv tube attaches to the air intake after the air filter.
Q: This is the question about the 1997 Ford Explorer and what kind of problems might I encounter owning one.?
Ok I tried to add to my question before but it did
not take or was not posted ???
So here goes. If this is the wrong way to add to the
question then give me a hand on this.
the Ford Explorer is a 1997 Eddie Bauer Limited
Addition. V8 engine with auto trans. And Good Lord
power everything. From the sun roof on down. I have
no idea how to operate all those buttons on the radio
or if it is really a radio. I bought this car from a
car lot that specializes in consignment cars. So did
not get to talk to the original owner. Except to know
that he was the first owner. The interior is tan
leather and is excellent condition for the 197,thosand
miles on the car. The outside is also in excellent
condition with no nicks dents or rust. A web check
showed no replacement body parts or accidents with the
car. It has the luggage rack on top and a trailer
package Class III on the back. Oil looked good and had
not been recently changed to hide anything. No noises
or problems with with steering. No rattles or chasiss
creaks. Power windows all work perfectly. Doors close
properly, locks all electric and they work correctly.
I got the car for $4500, he wanted $4900. The webb
says $5500 for a good one. The only thing I have had
to do to the car is air up the front tires.
Does that help? Some of the answers sound like they
may have gotten a real lemon. I hope this one is not.
Of course if the original owner kept it that long it
probably didn’t give him much trouble.
A: I have owned many fords and work on many cars, sounds to me like it is good, in fact any car with over 100,000 or more and no, or visible defect is great. Unfortunately you got a ford, lol and I love the cars. But their like women if you do not treat it right she will leave you stranded, broke and alone with no help. I suggest if you know nothing about cars and would rather make sure it stays in shape. Give a bath and wax once a month, a tire; brake; alignment check; and oil change once a month, also a full clean and inspection once a year and that should keep it nice.
Q: 1997 Ford Explorer XLT?
What are the common parts breakdown on the 1997 ford Explorer XLT?
A: Door locks, alarm, timing chains on 4.0 sohc
Q: How do I lift my 1997 Ford Explorer??
Cant find a lift for my 97′ explorer!! Im pretty sure nobody makes them but I dont know enough about it to understand why. I need to know what parts I need and where to get them!! Please help!!
A: Well, first how tall of a lift are you looking for? And what are you going to use the truck for?
If you just want a couple of inches maybe you could find a body lift. cotact performance acssesories to find a body lift for your truck.
I don’t think anybody made a kit for the 97’s because the torsoin bar mounts were welded on instead of bolted. they make kits for 98 and up. one of those kit would work if it was modified.
But if you want a couple more easy inches you could order a set of add-aleafs and crank your torsion bars in the front. for about two more inches of height.
Q: 1997 ford explorer the check engine light is on.?
Had the plugs, wires, and canister purge kit put on.
Check engine light is on again, now I am told that the power control module is having an electrical surge and causing other parts to burn up. I am now told that this part is 950.00 and I have already spent 820.00 to replace the canister purge kit, plugs and wires. How do I know if this will solve all our problems.
A: Sounds like you need to take to another garage, as they would should have fixed it for you. A check engine light usually indicates a problem with one of the air pollution controls that manage the engine system. Get a few more estimates from other garages that are AAA approved.
Q: Does anyone know where I can find, which other front end parts will fit my 1999 ford explorer?
I need to replace front grill and lights but don’t know if 1997 parts match up thx
A: Yes, the front end parts were the same from 1995 to 2001.
Q: how much would it cost, approx, to replace a seat belt on a 1997 ford explorer?
I’m not automotive inclined so please humor me, the buckle, the part that’s on the right side of the driver’s side seat, it doesn’t click, the seat belt will not secure and just keeps coming undone as soon as I take my hand off it.
A: Unless you have wrench it will be around six dollars in local srapper. Wrench will be extra.
Q: A question or two regarding brakes for a 1997 Ford Explorer?
I am driving my dad’s 1997 Explorer for the next few months. It has about 252,000 miles on it. About a week ago, I noticed a grinding/rubbing sound when I would brake, so I figure the pads are worn out. I will be seeing my brother next weekend and we are going to change them. However, I am also noticing a similar sound when the wheels are in motion with no brake pressure. Is this just another symptom of worn-out brake pads?
We will be checking the rotors as well for any damage. I presume this is something two guys can replace at the same time as the pads. Can you pick up new rotors at an auto parts store as easily as you can new brake pads (sorry, haven’t owned a car for over a year and have never done brake work)?
Also, just to add: there have been no issues regarding braking power. I go very easy on brakes (I coast as much as possible and don’t subscribe to the fast start/stop mode that many drivers apparently use).
If the wheel bearings are going bad (and if it really costs 400-600 bucks to replace them), how long can I get away with not replacing them? As I said above, this is not my vehicle nor do I intend it to be, and while I’m cool with buying new pads/rotors, I don’t want to spend a ton of money on a car that’s not mine.
Since the brakes still seem to have all their strength, will replacing the pads and rotors be sufficient for short-term (less than six months) use?
In regards to use: I have a 70-mile round trip commute that’s mostly highway; otherwise, I rarely use the vehicle.
I am guessing that the rotors will need replacing by the time I replace the pads…that grinding probably means they are being damaged. Will anything else be damaged as well if I delay another six days (approx. 500 miles) of driving?
A: I’ve done two brake jobs on friends 96-98 Explorers, both times I had to swap the wheel bearings from the old rotors to the new rotors. just FYI, there is no hub assembly like on a GM.
But sounds like new pads and rotors should fix you up, don’t delay.
Q: Charging the A/C in a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Liter 4 Door 2WD?
My A/C needs to be charged with freon. I heard that freon cannot be purchased due to gov’t laws and the only way I can get it is if I have someone do it. Can I actually get freon at a local parts store? And if so, how much? And also, what kind of gauge will I need to charge the system?
A: I thought a 97 Explorer came with R134 in it. If thats the case, go to any good parts store and pick up a can and gage with a hose.
Q: 1997 Ford Explorer Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Problems…….?
OKAY here’s the deal …
We bought a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT in February with our tax rebate. …. We thought we were getting a really good deal, and the guy told us that the timing chain tensioner was loose and had been rattling and making strange noises was the reason he was letting it go so cheap. He also told us that the part would only cost about $50 dollars, and my husband has a little experience with mechanics … (but with older model cars) anyhow, we decided to purchase the vehicle and take our chances on fixing it ourselves … BIG MISTAKE ! We bought the tensioner not knowing that the hard part was the labor that it took replacing it. So we decided that we would hold off and get a mechanic to fix it … ANOTHER MISTAKE ! The car ended up breaking down going down the highway. Since then it will turn over but won’t crank at all. We have priced having a mechanic do the work and the cheapest quote that we’ve gotten so far was $1,500.00 SO my question is
DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE REPLACING THE REAR TIMING TENSIONER … do you have any advice or pointers to give. At this point we have just begun to disassemble the engine hookups to pull it out of the car to work on it. But is it worth the trouble … ??
A: Unfortunately the seller pulled a fast one on you. The 4.0L actually has four timing chains, none of which utilizes a keyway or pin to lock it to the cams. Even if no internal damage was done when the chain failed you need special tools to line up and lock the cams in place while you torque the retaining bolts. We had too many with damage done after chain failure that we now just quote long blocks straight from the start. It’s cheaper, less labor intensive hour wise and the customer gets a good warranty for any future parts/labor that may happen. Let the rebuilders deal with the old one, you’ll thank yourself in the end. Quite a few professional QUALITY reman. companies are out there to meet your needs.
Q: Crashed my 1997 Ford Explorer, trying to assess damage. Help?
Just yesterday there was a severe snowstorm where I live, and on the way home from school, I was going 30 mph when I hit a patch of ice and went off the road, strangely on the left side (I was moving into the middle of the road to avoid the snow drift, when I lost control). The front left of my 1997 Ford Explorer hit a wired fence, taking out two of the poles, and the back right of the car grazed a telephone pole. My dad who is an ex auto-body man was pretty mad, being I haven’t even been driving an entire year yet. So, I am trying to, on my own, assess the damage and see if the car is worth fixing.
The front, driver side fender is ripped up and definitely needs replacing. The bottom part of the bumper is intact, but hanging down a little bit on the driver side. The passenger side rear quarter panel, where I grazed a telephone pole, is a bit smashed in and the window above it is knocked out. The rear passenger fender, door, and rear door window are fine. Also, the rear bumper does not look good. The top part, directly under the trunk door is bent up on both sides.
However, the car starts, runs fine, the brakes are intact, the exhaust is fine, and all the electrical works, except for the passenger tail light, which is shot. I am hoping someone could offer advice as to whether or not the car is totaled. Already having 155, 000 miles I only care about fixing what is necessary to drive the car. Anything damage that I can leave unfixed I will. Also, I am wondering if my dad and I can do any of this work ourselves.
A: Leave it up to daddy-o, he is an ex auto-body man, so he should know. Also, keep this in mind, you will have to pay for the replacement of the fence poles. Also, why is daddy-o mad, you are an inexperienced driver, so he should at least have some understanding.
Q: 1997 Ford Explorer repairs?
i had my transfer case seals replaced in july and they are leaking again should i take car back to same shop? I’m looking at receipt and it says “90 days on labor and 1 yr on parts” They charged me almost $500 to do this.
Okay, let mere-phrase this-I just had my fuel pump go out and while I was at a different shop I had them diagnose that it was for sure the transfer case seals leaking-my question is other than a bad part is their anything that could cause this to happen after 90 days? I don’t want to get over there and have them tell me there is something “new”
A: I would have it looked at by another shop. The parts are relatively an inexpensive part of this repair so the 1 year warranty on the parts is about useless without any labor coverage.
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