1997 Ford Explorer
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1997 Ford Explorer online

Read and learn more about 1997 Ford Explorer online. For more, visit the Ford Explorer website TruckExplorer.org

Q: What kind of stereo can i get for my 1997 Ford Explorer?
I don’t like my current stock in-dash stereo. I want to upgrade, but I have no idea wheere to begin. The slot where it fits seems much larger than the size of the stereos i see when i look for some online. Is there a compatibility number i can use to search with? Can anyone recommend a good product for my ‘97 Ford Explorer, or even a good website to buy one. Please don’t just leave a website, please only respond if you can answer my original question. Thank You!

A: you can get any stereo. Custom stereos all are smaller, so they fit. With all of them, you have to get an installation mounting kit thing and wireing harness also. It’s not as complicated as it sounds. You can get these things at Walmart and many other places.

Q: Problem with stereo wire colors in my 1997 Ford Explorer Limited Edition?
I am trying to hook up a cd player in my 97 ford explorer limited edition and i looked at a wiring diagram online, but the wire colors are not the same. What can I do, I need to get it hooked up correctly?
I need to know what color wires coming out of the dashboard belong to which speakers

A: 1997 Ford Expedition Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ White/Purple
Switched 12V+ Black/Pink
Ground Black/Green
Illumination Blue/Black
Dimmer n/a
Amplifier Remote Blue
Antenna Right Front
Front Speakers 6″ x 8″ Doors
Left Front (+) White/Red
Left Front (-) Brown
Right Front (+) Green
Right Front (-) White/Orange
Rear Speakers 6″ x 8″ Rear Doors
Left Rear (+) Light Blue/Black
Left Rear (-) Yellow
Right Rear (+) Purple/White
Right Rear (-) Light Blue

Q: Does anyone know how to turn off the interior lights in a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT while the doors are open?
I have an overhead dome in the front seat where switches can be used to turn these off (I think these may be also associated with my headlights which I can turn off). However I have a rear dome light with no switch on it that will not turn off when the rear door or window hatch is open. My friends and I go to the drive in occasionally and my car is ideal to use because of the size, but people get pretty pissed off if you’re in front of them with your interiors on. Let me know if anyone knows the answer. I have been looking online and have not had any luck. Could not find my car manual either. Thanks: )

A: I had the same problem — you have to remove the bulb (The cover should just pop off and you can leave it off). Don’t remove the fuse, because that thing is for alot more than the dome lights. Hope this helps!

Q: Can I Disable or Bypass The Transfer Case In A 1997 Ford Explorer?
I believe my transfer case is going bad, when I get above 30 MPH and let off the gas there’s a loud whining sound coming from under the car, as soon as I hit the gas the sound goes away. I’ve been doing research online and all the facts seem to lead to the transfer case. I don’t have the money right now to buy a new one, but I’m saving up. In the mean time is there any way that I can bypass the transfer case or disable it in any way. I already took one driveshaft off so that the car is only rear wheel drive, but I’m not sure how to or if it’s even possible to disable the transfer case without causing damage to the Transmission or axles. Any help would be much appreciated, thank you very much.
I checked the rear end when it started happening, and it’s fine. Changed the transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, and greased up the rear pumpkin ball and changed the oil in that.

A: it sounds like the ring and pinion to me.i have driven ford trucks most of my life and i just don’t think it’s the transfer case. if you do away with the transfer case you will have to get a new or diff. trans. Just in case look at the U joints first (not that much money) if that dose not help. take it to a good garage. ford transfers are tough and if you have not ben driving around in 4×4 on pavement it’s ok

Q: Ford explorer!!!!!!!!!?
I have a 1997 ford explorer and need to get a new remote to lock/unlock the doors I tried replacing the batteries how would I go about getting a new remote?? Please tell me where I could call or go online to get one

A: Call a Ford dealer and ask, but until then, just use the key. That will always work.

Q: Can you install an American stereo in a car with European specs?
I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Explorer with Euro specs (I’m an expat living in Cairo, Egypt). The whole truck is in metric (kilometers, etc), and I’m wondering if I bought a new cd receiver online from the states, if it would be compatible in it. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks!

A: The only issue I know of is the radio tuner. Digital FM tuners designed for the US market only work on odd frequencies like 99.7, 99.9, 100.1, etc; it’s usually not possible to tune one to 99.8 or 102.00. You may have radio stations in your area that you won’t be able to hear on a US radio tuner.

Q: My husband’s car battery is dead :( ?
My husband is currently deployed which leaves the responsibility of taking care of the cars to me! And I know nothing at all about them. I neglected started his car every few days and now it seems as though the alarm system on his car has killed his battery. When I try to start it up it sounds like a wood pecker and he said it’s the battery.

Now he says that I have to jump start it but I have no clue how. I have the cables and we do have another vehicle that I drive regularly. I’ve tried looking up online how to jump start it but it’s kinda mumbo jumbo to me. Could you explain step by step how to properly jump start a car please?!

And in case it makes a difference, the car that is dead is a 1999 Lincoln Continental and I’ll be jumping it with a 1997 Ford Explorer. I didn’t know if that mattered.
I know what the batteries look like and I want to do this myself. This is a skill I should know anyways. I shouldn’t have to run to a neighbor everytime something goes wrong.
Ok I’m confused. Some people say to hook positive to positive and negative to negative and others say positive to positive and negative to any rust-free metal on the dead battery car. Which is it???
Okay, Positive to dead battery, positive to good battery, negative to good battery, negative to any solid clean metal part on dead battery engine, may see a spark but normal, turn on good car and run for few minutes, try starting dead battery car, run for 20min. Remove jumper cables in reverse order.
Thank you all for your help! This is how I am able to get things done while my husband is gone and I really appreciate all of your advice!! I got it jump started with no issues since I did my research before attempting anything.

A: Buy or borrow jumper cables.

Make sure both cars have the keys turned off.

1. Connect a red cable end to the + (red) terminal on the Lincoln.
2. Connect the other end of the red cable end to the + (red) terminal on the Ford.
3. Connect the Ford end of the black cable end to the – (black) terminal on the Ford.
4. Connect the Lincoln end of the black cable to any piece of unpainted (bare) metal on the Lincoln. The engine, the frame, the inside of the fender, whatever works. It may spark when you do this. Do not connect the dead battery’s black terminal to anything, or it will be bad.
5. Start the Ford. Let it run for three minutes.
6. Start the Lincoln. Let it run for three minutes. If it doesn’t start, try the lights or stereo; if those aren’t working, the cables aren’t hooked up right, make sure there’s not rust or paint or something between the clamps and metal.
7. Remove the cables in the reverse order that you put ‘em on. (Black Lincoln, Black Ford, Red Ford, Black Lincoln).
8. Smile.

Q: What sub and amp do i need?
I hav a 1997 – ford explorer, XLT. I was looking at memphis audio subs but i want somthing thats average in price but is the best Sub for that price ange.. i want Hard hitting bass (i listen too rap and hardstyle/techno) so i want a “universal box” somthin that has 1 ported sub and one seald sub.. im looking to get at least 2 12″.. can some1 help me on the selection of..
1.the sub
2.the box (were i should go to get one most likely online. unless some1 lives in florida near ocala lol than they can tell me)
3.the amp
4.the wireing kit for this
5.if i should get a cap.

A: if your looking or bang you got to go with kicker.
the cheapest set they have will be 2 kicker comps in a ported box you dont need a cap for these and the amp is even cheaper so its about a 170 dollar package it has a good beat for the price.

but if you want a premium beat for a okay price you got to get the cvr’s

and this is the set you should get.

subs-2 cvr kicker 12′’s 800watts each 1600 max (silver with red middle symbol)

amp- crunch p1400×2, sends 700watts of raw power to each sub. nice black design with illuminated crunch symbol in middle. i used his sub several times and always delivered.
a capacitor is needed for these. a 1.4 farad or 1.5 farad. and a wiring kit

Q: Heavy fan clutch question?
Where can I get or find a Heavy Duty Fan Clutch for a 1997-2001 Ford Explorer or Ford Ranger? Because I was looking at auto parts stores like auto zone and advance auto part online in they only have severe duty. Because I just put a new fan clucth heavy duty on my wife 2000 Durango in now is sound awesome the engine in I want to do the same thing on my Explorer and Ranger, My question severe duty make the same sound as a heavy duty?

A: Ok, 1st of all, a Dodge Durango and a Ford Explorer or Ranger are two entirely different things. So, it’s going to be impossible to make the fan in one sound just like the other, due to the engineering of the two vehicles. TWO, why are you worried about the way it sounds? The only thing you should be worried about is if it engages when it’s needed, to cool the engine. No one buys fan clutches for their “performance sound”.

Q: I need a new car. What used car should I purchase?
My old 1990 Toyota 4Runner is giving out after a long run of 220,000 miles. The transmission is going, the air compressor, and torque converter all need to be replaced. With that said I love my truck, it was the perfect first car for me.
Looking to buy another Toyota 4Runner or maybe a Nissan Pathfinder. I don’t off-road. I do need a car that will fit say 3-4 friends. I want good gas mileage. I was getting 13 miles to the gallon, I want better. I’m looking at a 1997-2000 models. Definitely an automatic, 4-door. I might go with 2wd instead of 4wd because of gas mileage. I’ve been looking in the paper as well as Craig’s List (online classifieds) but all have had higher miles than I wanted.
I guess my question is what car would you suggest? Toyota, Nissan, Lexus, Honda, or other? Honestly, I don’t care for Fords so expeditions/explorers are out of the question. I don’t really want a car that is super expensive to work on. I want something reliable and easy to maintain. Suggestions?
One of the reasons I want a SUV is for safety. I’m young and accident prone. A small car will be wrecked if I got into an accident. Plus it’s easier for me to drive when I can see all the cars. Doesn’t sit so low to the ground so I have to crane my neck to see ahead. I want to be safe but gas mileage is important. :P
My price range is somewhere between $3000-$10000. As I’m still in high school that is all I can afford.

A: I think it really comes down to how much of an improvement you’d like to see in terms of gas mileage.

And based on reading your post, I’d say you pretty much have your eyes set on the ‘97-’00 4Runners. Go for it if you can find a good one. I think those were pretty nice but I think the power was somewhat disappointing for its size and weight. Of course, there is no doubt they were reliable.

Also, I agree with ron mexico. I think Highlander is another excellent choice. Given that you get the V6 model, you will get better mileage with more power, especially more torque. If you want more luxury, go for the RX300, which is exactly the same car as the Highlander.

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